How to substitute yarn of a different gauge in a pattern. A little bit of math is involved, but it's not too difficult.
Pattern gauge - 4 sts per inch
Personal gauge - 4.5 - 5 sts per inch
Stitches at the bust to get desired size, which in this case for me is 34:
x sts/34" = 5sts/1"
x = 34*5
x = 170 sts
This will be the number of stitches needed across bust to get the desired 34" bust measurement. Next, look through the pattern to find which size gives that number of stitches at the bust. Use the numbers for that size in order to get the size I want.
I did not mention during this episode, but my row gauge is almost the same as the suggested pattern gauge. However, since this is a top down sweater, I can adjust the rows up or down as needed to get the right length.
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